Kirwin, Wyoming
Nestled high in the mountains of the Shoshone National Forest, west of Meteetsee sits an abandoned mining town that made Amelia Earhart want to put down roots to build a cabin. Wyoming’s history is full of stories of towns that attracted hundreds seeking a new life – only to be abandoned years later. Kirwin is one such town. The town is (mostly) still standing, and although it hasn’t been home to anyone in decades, it’s an eerily beautiful place to visit.
It’s a nearly 33-mile one-way route west from Meeteetse, Wy. Getting to Kirwin is a straightforward route. Do remember that this is bear country so bear spray is always good to have on hand. The best times to visit the area are from mid-summer to early fall. As the few water crossings can be daunting when the water is high due to the spring runoff. Don't forget this is Wyoming's high country so expect cooler temperatures and the possibility of late and early snow.
The first 20 miles are mostly on paved and well-kept gravel roads. This portion of the route takes you past rural farmlands and some nice homes with amazing views. Make sure to keep your eyes open in the fields for several different wildlife.
After you cross into the Shoshone National Forest the road starts to degrade a bit. But it’s still an easy drive. Along this section, you will pass two established campgrounds that are maintained by the forest service. The first campground, Big Wood River, is a more compact camp, but also has a couple of sites next to the river. Brown Mountain campground is more spread out and, although, near the river, it is not right on it. Both have vault toilets, food storage boxes, and designated fire pits (usually stocked with wood to use).
After the campgrounds, you will see a sign stating 9 miles to Kirwin. From here the road degrades more. This section is technical and rugged. Climbing high into the mountains the dirt road takes you through running and dry creek beds and up and down steep grades. Through slide areas and a few narrow shelves. Do be aware if traveling here after a good rainstorm there may be washouts and random rocks on the route.
In the summertime, wild raspberries grow alongside the road and if you keep your eyes peeled, you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the elusive, and once thought to be extinct, Black Footed Ferret. Also, you may spot various other wildlife along the way. Along the way to Kirwin, there are many old cabins, mining equipment, and the Double D Ranch. All of which you can explore. Please be respectful of the historic locations. There are also a few dispersed camping locations along the way.
When you arrive at the town, there is a vault toilet, parking area, and signs that detail the history of Kirwin. From the parking area, you can walk a little further down the road and locate the bridge off to the left. Once you cross the river take your time to just explore the town.
This little local area ignited to life when gold and silver were found during the mid-1880s. As far as mining communities go Kirwin was kept pretty tame. The mining companies wouldn't permit saloons, betting, brothels, or single women to reside in town (aside from the teacher). There was an individual named "Lucile the Palmist" for entertainment, however, when it was found out that there was something else to her “entertainment” besides palm reading she was forced to leave. There were reports of saloons at Double D Ranch.
By 1906 eighteen mines had been dug. Only one known carload of ore was ever shipped from Kirwin. The ore had a reported net value of only $65 per ton. The winter of 1907 was particularly brutal for Kirwin's 200 residents. An eight-day blizzard dropped more than fifty feet of snow. On the night of February 5, 1907, a 300-foot-wide avalanche roared along Brown Mountain, destroying structures and killing three people. Most of the citizens and miners left with the arrival of spring.
In the 1930s, the land became part of the Double D Ranch, a place visited by Amelia Earhart and her husband, George Putnam. A cabin was under construction for Earhart when she disappeared on her flight around the world in 1937 and was never completed. The remains of the cabin are visible about a mile from Kirwin, as well as an old hotel, a few small log structures, and mining machinery.
Over the years the Forest Service, with the help of summer volunteers, has begun to stabilize and refurbish buildings. There are several short walks to visit various buildings and mines. There are also more options for longer hikes in the area. In August, the Meeteetse Museum organizes a Kirwin public group tour.
I encourage you to add Kirwin to your Wyoming trip. The story of Kirwin, an abandoned mining town in the Absoroka Mountains of Wyoming, and the risk takers involved in its story. This remote area has attracted a lot of attention over time. Today, its natural beauty and glorious past endure.